I kicked off my Kamijima adventure at Sashima, one of the Kamijima main islands. My first eco-excursion of the day was at Shimatabi Basecamp, where I joined a private yacht eco-tour and had the pleasure of meeting Sam Saito, a seasoned sailor with over ten years of experience.

For the New Zealand native, Sam's introduction to Kamijima was serendipitous, stumbling upon these shores during a world-round sailing trip with his family where he realized that Kamijima is a haven for ocean enthusiasts. “Kamijima is really a place to boast about,” says Sam. “There are no convenience stores that open 24 hours here, just a relaxed community atmosphere and a chance for visitors to get an authentic glimpse into the heart of Japan.”

As we embarked on the restored catamaran, we cruised away from the shores of Sashima, passing beneath the Yumeshima Kaido Bridges connecting four of Kamijima’s main islands towards the uninhabited island of Akahone. Arriving at our destination, we were met with the sight of our very own private beach.

"Usually, at beaches like this, there are three or four groups of people," Sam says. "But here, this beach has no name, and you can have it all to yourself, which is very unusual. Its beauty is completely untouched."

Clearly, he has a deep love for these islands, a sentiment that could easily be shared by his guests, who would be able to relax on beach chairs or go for a swim on their very own private beach.

After spending some time on the beach, we sailed back to the basecamp, enjoying the calm sea as the gentle breeze filled our unfurled sails — a perfect opportunity to unwind and even take a brief nap while surrounded by the soothing embrace of the sea breeze.

After bidding farewell to our sea guide, we made our way to Yugeshima via the Yumeshima Kaido Bride for a satisfying lunch at Shima de Café, a charming family-owned establishment. Upon our arrival, Ritsuko Murakami and her daughter, Tomomi, warmly welcomed us, exuding pride in their business and creating a warm and inviting ambience for our dining experience.

Under the Murakami’s ownership, the café has earned a reputation for serving delectable fresh fish platters and the island’s renowned lemon pork. I savored every bite of my juicy pork hamburger, paired with crisp veggies, while my travel companion enjoyed a delectable fish and vegetable dish, both incredibly crisp and surprisingly light on the palate.

As each customer entered, the mother and daughter duo continued to greet everyone and attend to their needs, ensuring that each individual felt at home. Despite being a newcomer, I immediately felt embraced by the cozy island community, making me feel like part of their domestic circle.

The Murakami family connection continued after lunch at the nearby Yuge no Sho salt-making experience housed in a nearby warehouse. As we stepped into the storehouse, we were greeted by the sight of Tomoki Murakami standing beside enormous tubs brimming with seawater from the nearby shores. Below the tubs, a wood stove crackled, causing the water to shimmer with vibrant bubbles.

These coastal areas, known for their low rainfall, have gained recognition for their salt production, with a long history of traditional salt-making experience of their local Yuge salt, known as Yuge no Sho. Today, Yuge no Sho is more of a dedicated effort to preserve the region's salt-making heritage, passing it onwards to visitors curious to observe the salt-making process.

While reservations are typically required to visit, Tomoki-san was kind enough to show us the behind-the-scenes process and gave us the chance to participate in one of the activities offered here.

For this, we poured concentrated seawater into handmade clay pots and set them over hot charcoal. After a 30-minute wait, we were rewarded with the sight of the water bubbling and turning white at the surface as the salt separated.

While this isn’t the typical salt separation process, as the salt tends to mix with the clay, it was, nonetheless, still satisfying to watch the process. To top off our visit, we were generously gifted small packets of pure, on-site-produced salt as a parting memento and a piece of Yugeshima history to take home.

After enjoying the afternoon, we proceeded to our first overnight stay at Yuge no Yado. Yoshifumi and Chiyako Kawabata own this charming minshuku, a traditional Japanese-style bed and breakfast. Like our seafaring yacht guide, Sam, these Kagoshima natives also had a fortuitous introduction to the island.

Longing to create a guesthouse near the calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea, they stumbled upon Yugeshima on a motorbike excursion while seeking more gentle sea waters. It was like love at first sight.

"Four main islands are connected by bridges, we are close to necessary amenities, and yet we still have this quiet island life we were looking for."

After enlisting the support of locals, the Kawabata family came upon their century-old house and undertook the task of completely renovating the property on their own. Personally, I have always been a fan of old Japanese architecture. From preserving the intricacy of the door slats to retaining the tatami-floored bedrooms, every detail always feels like it holds so much history, and I love that they are carefully and lovingly preserving the original feeling of the house.

Before dinner, they insisted we treat ourselves to a soak in their custom-built open-air bath. With its unobstructed view of the sky, the space was just a nice chance to unwind looking up towards the open sky while the dinner preparations unfolded.

Clean and refreshed, we convened in the dining room for our evening meal. And the following dinner was nothing short of a seafood extravaganza, with an array of fresh catches, including seabream, flounder, and octopus. This sumptuous yet comforting meal provided the ideal conclusion to the day, leaving me ready to retire to the welcoming futon for a peaceful night's rest.

The next morning, we indulged in yet another mouthwatering breakfast at Yuge no Yado before bidding farewell to our gracious hosts. Before heading to our next destination, we stopped by Guest House Michishio on Yugeshima, where we were in for a completely different type of lodging experience. As we approached the guesthouse, we were warmly greeted by Koji Hirata, the owner, who was strolling up the road to meet us. He explained that he had been caring for his pet goat in another field.

From a career as an editor and newspaper reporter to tending to a pet goat and operating a guesthouse, Hirata's journey was fascinating. His transition to a more rural island lifestyle stemmed from his desire to embrace a community that resonated with his own passions, using the guesthouse to welcome visitors and actively engage with the local community as a participant…

After learning about Kamijima's initiatives for local development cooperatives, he decided to move to the island. However, it was his admiration for the warm and inclusive nature of the locals that ultimately led him to plant his roots here, fashioning a guesthouse from an abandoned house to serve as a hub for cyclists and hikers seeking the same sense of island camaraderie that he had experienced himself.

Driven by his involvement in an activity of a Non-Profit Organization committed to preserving unoccupied dwellings and assisting individuals in relocating to the island, Koji-san is an integral part of the effort to breathe new life into the area.

Next, we made it to Kitchen 313 Kamiyuge, a delightful bakery which prides itself on bagels, bread, and home-roasted coffee. Owned by Maki Miyahata, the bakery is located in her grandmother's old residence, a house with an incredibly rich history.

Maki-san's journey to reclaim and rejuvenate her family's heritage began with the renovation of this space. Making sure to preserve the original use of tsuga no ki, a rare and exquisite type of wood, she involved specialists to renovate the plaster walls while honoring the craftsmanship of the original carpenters.

Maki-san took the proactive step of seeking recognition for her ancestral home as a registered tangible cultural property of Japan, inviting professionals and scholars to confirm that the building met the requirements for this special designation. With their support, she showed that her beloved house was a treasure to her and had valuable historical, artistic, and academic significance for the nation.

Beyond its historic facade, Kitchen 313 Kamiyuge is a place filled with warmth and kindness, reflecting the spirit of its owner. For the past decade, Maki-san has crafted wonderfully chewy bagels, a passion ignited by a friend's encouragement to delve into baking.

We ordered the bagel sandwich with homemade chicken ham layered with vegetables and mayo. As we waited for our order, the bakery entryway was a revolving door of activity, with customers visiting to secure their favorite bagels, collect pre-orders, and share conversations with the friendly owner.

Once we had our freshly made bagel sandwiches, we drove and took a brief hike to a picturesque vantage point atop the island in the center of Iwagijima, which is the observatory for Mt. Sekizen. The 360° panoramic viewpoint from this spot allowed us to take in the beauty of three Yumeshima Kaido bridges connecting four Kamijima islands on one side and the Shimanami Kaido bridges on the other, along with the incredible vistas of the Seto Inland Sea.

This is also a popular spot for visitors in the spring when the surrounding cherry blossom trees bloom, creating a stunning contrast against the backdrop of the expansive ocean sprawled out in all directions.

Our off-season visit, however, was relatively quiet and we experienced a delightful respite — as we savored our bagels and enjoyed the serene views of the surrounding ocean.

Next, on Sashima, we went to book café okappa, operated by Ayami and Shinsuke Yamanouchi. The old preschool has been transformed into a quaint café space filled with books and art, a kids' area, and a private tatami room for reading.

Originally from Tochigi Prefecture, Ayami-san came to Sashima as a solo traveler who stayed overnight at one of Sashima’s accommodation options (which we later learned would be our next overnight stay at Shiomi House). Like many before her, the indescribable magic and laid-back atmosphere of the islands took hold.

Along with a fellow island transplant, they repurposed the old school using donated lumber, windows, and doors salvaged from other dilapidated houses slated for demolition. With unwavering support from the local community, their renovations were completed in about five months. It was also here, on this island, that Ayami-san met her now-husband, Shinsuke-san from Osaka, who assists in running the business.

Today, the café has become a cherished spot among local parents, offering a tranquil setting to sit with a book and savor a cup of coffee. But then again, while sitting here with my own coffee, there's a high probability you might prefer engaging in friendly conversation with Ayami-san, chatting about island life and her children’s island schedules as if you were long-lost friends. As she professes herself, she thoroughly relishes conversing with her visitors, and I find it more than easy to welcome and reciprocate her warm and welcoming nature.

For our overnight stay, just a few blocks from book café okappa, is Shiomi House, a beautifully renovated kominka (an old folk house). Beyond a wooden gateway, Shiomi House greeted us with a sense of seclusion as we entered the garden courtyard and into the traditional-style mudroom and spacious tatami-floor rooms.

With the doors wide open and no one in sight, we dropped off our bags and sat on the edge of the veranda awaiting the arrival of our hosts. Immediately, it felt like we had slipped into island time, a tranquility only broken by the cheerful chirping of birds in the garden.

Finally, Mie Kudo, one of the managers of Shiomi House, arrived with bags of freshly picked vegetables. “The farmer just gave these to me,” she said as she unloaded freshly picked kale, corn, and leafy greens onto the table. It was this experience that embodied the uniqueness of our stay at Shiomi House. It’s like we were returning to our own family home, a sentiment that is intensified with their “share gohan time,” when guests can join in the preparation of dinner.

While in the kitchen, we peeled the corn and chatted about Mie-san’s fascinating journey from her hometown of Hokkaido to Sashima, starting with a chance encounter with the Shiomi House owner.

As she talked about her eventual move to become a manager at Shiomi House, a curious cat entered the kitchen to observe our cooking activities, adding to the homely ambience.

As part of this “share gohan time,” we also set the table and continued the conversation over dinner, together with guests and host. Keiko Tomita, Shiomi’s other manager, eventually joined our dinner after coming in from the street after an evening walk, continuing to share their love for the ocean and the tranquil surroundings of Sashima.

After tidying up from dinner, I treated myself to a bath in the goemonburo, a classic Japanese cauldron-shaped bath heated with a wood stove. While soaking in the rising hot steam, the sound of meowing cats outside waiting for their evening meal from the kitchen added to the relaxing atmosphere. It was yet another memorable ending in one of Kamijima’s lovely accommodations, setting the mood for the island's laid-back pace for the night.

Our final day began with a farewell to our gracious hosts at Shiomi House. With eager anticipation, we headed to the Yuge Sea Station on Yugeshima to join the friendly Matt Petersen for another unforgettable eco-adventure.

A kindred spirit to our friend Sam, Matt, a fellow Kiwi, shared a deep love for yachts and island living. After falling in love with Kamijima, Matt and his partner established Kamijima Adventures, offering tailored tours that provide a true immersion into the local culture and nature.

After we mapped out our journey and hopped on electric assist bikes, we were ready to explore the island with Matt as our guide. His mission was clear: to help us relax and nurture our curiosity about the island. As we biked through small neighborhoods and visited his favorite spots, we were warmly welcomed by locals tending to their gardens and indulging in their own leisurely strolls. His focus on the island's people offered us an authentic and personal experience, fostering a strong connection with the community and even prompting return visits from many of his guests.

Despite a gloomy weather forecast, not a single drop of rain dampened our adventure. "This is as bad as it gets," Matt reassured us as the sun broke through the clouds, infusing the island with warmth.

As our cycling escapade drew to a close, we couldn't resist following Matt's recommendation to visit Totoya Izakaya, a vibrant local eatery nearby. The lively establishment was bustling with patrons settling in for their meals. Indulging in the fresh sushi and flavorful udon, we found it to be the perfect culmination of our exhilarating biking adventure.

Following heartfelt farewells to our fellow biking companions, we made our way to the ferry terminal, filled with contentment and satisfaction from a day well spent.

En route to Imabari City, we stopped at SOIL Setoda on Ikuchijima for a quick drink at its eatery. This cyclist-friendly area is a popular rest stop for those biking the scenic Shimanami Kaido cycling route. The 140-year-old salt warehouse has turned into a coffee shop, restaurant, and overnight lodgings. The gift shop also provides a delightful selection of bento box options for a quick bite on the go.

Later, we visited the Kurushima Kaikyo Service Area(SA), which provided us with the last breathtaking view of the islands and the iconic Shimanami sign. It was truly a must-see photo opportunity, perfectly capturing the essence of our journey before we concluded our travels in Imabari.

Reflecting on our experience, I still feel the irresistible allure of the islands of Kamijima. Their distinctive charm has a way of drawing you in and making you feel at home like nowhere else. During our three-day adventure, we had the opportunity to connect with the locals, visit shops and cafés, and stay in beautifully refurbished accommodation, gaining insight into the profound link the people have with the island.

Whether it was someone returning to their ancestral home, a solo traveler on a personal journey, or even a passing catamaran carrying a family of adventurers, the magnetic appeal of Kamijima continues to enthrall a diverse array of visitors, drawing them back time and time again. I will let my own longing to revisit these remote islands speak for itself.

If you want to see more of my trips, please go check the links below:
Route 1: Extend Your Golden Journey With this Easy Trip from Hiroshima to Ehime’s Ancient Hot Spring Town
Route 4: Embark on an Epic Cycling Journey on the Shimanami Kaido, Japan's Famous Biking Route
Route 5: Experience a Walk Through Serene Landscapes & Warmth of this Ancient Pilgrimage Route
Route 6: Mountain Worship at the Sacred Mt. Ishizuchi